How to Set up a Tub: Install an Acrylic Bathtub and Also Tub Surround
How to Set up a Tub: Install an Acrylic Bathtub and Also Tub Surround
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Mounting a bathtub isn't precisely brain surgery, but it does require solid plumbing, woodworking, and also sometimes, tiling skills. Changing an old bath tub with a new one is likewise a reasonably hard project. If the old tub is easily obtainable, the project can move immediately; if you have to open a wall to get rid of the old bathtub and position the new bathtub, the job is a lot harder. In either instance, the project is within a house handyman's abilities, although you will certainly need a helper to leave the old bathtub and also embeded in the brand-new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the task and are comfortable trying it. As opposed to hiring a professional to take control of a halfway-completed task, it is far better to consider employing one before you begin. Chances are you may require a specialist plumber to make tube links.
This article will help you set up a new bathtub in your restroom if you have currently bought a new tub and don't need to alter the plan of your previous water system pipelines.
Your tools and also material list need to make up the following:
Removing Old Touches
If you require to change old faucets with brand-new ones as a part of your installation, after that the first thing you should do is separate the water. After doing so, activate the faucets to drain any water continuing to be in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be fairly problematic because of the limited gain access to that is typically the case.
Utilize a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap device to undo the nut that connects the supply pipelines to the faucets. Have a towel prepared for the continuing to be water that will come from the pipelines. As soon as the supply pipelines have actually been removed, use the same tool to loosen the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will certainly need to stop the solitary faucets from turning during this procedure. As soon as the taps have actually been removed, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned up of any type of old securing compound.
Before carrying on to fit the new taps, compare the pipe connections on the old faucets to the new taps. If the old faucets are longer than the new taps, after that a shank adapter is required for the brand-new faucets to fit.
Fitting New Touches
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, after that you will require a plastic port to prevent damages to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the faucet as well as the various other end supplies a connection to the current supply pipes.
If you require to fit a monobloc, after that you will call for decreasing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the typical 15mm supply pipe.
Next off, position the tap in the installing hole in the bath/basin making sure that the washing machines are in area between the tap and the sink. Secure the faucet in position with the producer given backnut. Once the faucet is firmly in place, the supply pipelines can be connected to the tails of the taps. The faucets can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with typical faucet connectors. The previous kind should be linked to the faucet ends first, tightening up just by hand. The supply pipes can later be connected to the various other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been linked.
Installing the Tub
Using the two wood boards under its feet, put the bath tub in the called for placement. The wooden boards are useful in equally spreading out the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards rather than concentrating all the weight onto four little factors.
The next objective is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be attained by inspecting the level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub up until the level reads level.
To set up faucets, fit the bottom of the furthest adaptable faucet connector to the proper supply pipe by making a compression sign up with; then do the very same for the other tap.
Switch on the supply of water as well as inspect all joints and also brand-new pipework for leakages and also tighten them if needed. Load the bath tub and likewise inspect the overflow outlet and the normal electrical outlet for leakages.
Finally, repair the bathroom paneling as described in the maker's user's manual. Tiling and sealing around the tub needs to wait till the bathtub has been used a minimum of once as this will settle it right into its final placement.
Preparing for the Installment
To start with, the sustaining frame supplied with the bath must be fitted (if required) according to the manufacturer's guidelines. Next off, fit the faucets or mixer to the bath tub. When suitable the faucet block, it is necessary to make sure that if the tap includes a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bathroom and also the taps. On a plastic bath, it is likewise practical to fit a supporting plate under the taps unit to prevent strain on the bathtub.
Fit the versatile tap ports to the bottom of the two taps making use of 2 nuts as well as olives (in some cases supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet opening, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bathroom. Use the nut supplied by the supplier to fit the plug-hole. Analyze the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit completion of the flexible overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which must be fitted inside the bathroom. See to it you make use of all of the supplied washing machines.
Link the catch to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bath tub by winding the string of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect all-time low of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom ought to now prepare to be fitted in its final placement.
Tiling Around the Tub
In the location where the bath satisfies the ceramic tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the fitting can move sufficient to split a rigid seal, creating the water to pass through the wall between the bathroom as well as the tiling, bring about problems with moisture and feasible leaks to the ceiling listed below.
You can select from a variety of coloured sealants to assimilate your fixtures and installations. They are sold in tubes as well as cartridges, and also can sealing voids as much as a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to fill up, you can load it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Keep in mind to always fill up the bathtub with water before securing, to allow for the movement experienced when the bathtub remains in use. The sealant can fracture rather early if you do not take into account this activity before sealing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be used to edge the bathroom or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and reduce to size, are additionally conveniently readily available on the market. It is suggested to fit the ceramic tiles making use of water-resistant or water-proof adhesive as well as grout.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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